New York Steakhouse @ JW Marriott Sukhumvit: Price and quality mismatch

It is difficult not to question whether it is the lack of outstanding steakhouses that allowed the New York Steakhouse to sell at inflated prices, or whether it was my mistake of coming down for dinner late that has left me severely disappointed. In short, the atmosphere was good, but the food was awful.

The dining room certainly felt right – large hefty chairs that are comfortable, with high enough backs and table layout that makes you feel somewhat isolated from the rest of the diners despite being seated not far from other tables. The waitresses were not particularly friendly but were sufficiently professional, until they weren’t.

The food, though, was bad. The complimentary bread looked sexy and delicious, but turned out to have started to cool when it arrived and was much firmer than one would expect – it was more cakey than bready. Firm and heavy and somewhat dry. The butter was somewhat bland and did not help at all. Yes, at a hotel steakhouse at this price point I’d expect even the butter to be creamy, rich and delicious too.

New York Steakhouse bread

Cakey cooling bread and cold butter. Not a good combination.

Then the waitress brought the huge serving tray for the steak and pushed the bread out of the way – but the steak did not arrive for a good 15 minutes. There was really no point to having that rather pretty trey sit there and be in the way, at least unless the steak was to arrive soon!

New York Steakhouse Tray

The damn tray that sat there in the way doing nothing.

My heart sank when I cut into the steak with the not very sharp knife. In all fairness, had the steak been good, tender and juicy a semi-blunt knife wouldn’t have mattered. Not this one though. A katana would have been helpful to split this thing. At one end it was raw and tough (I asked for medium-rare), with the fat barely rendered. At the other end the steak was cooked well done and completely grey throughout. The only thing that was consistent was how difficult it was to cut – no, I basically had to tear it apart. And did I say the steak was rather thin?

New York Steakhouse Steak

The steak was thin but the grill mark looked nice? Don’t be deceived…

New York Steakhouse Steak

Because the steak was not evenly cooked.  One side leathery one side raw.

The steak fries weren’t any better. I’d have hoped for the crispy “steak-frites” fries, but these were wedges. That would have been fine, as people often call wedges fries anyway, but this was served in a somewhat deep dish, which meant most of the fries were soggy. Very disappointing. This is exactly why many restaurants serve their fries in mesh trays nowadays – and wedges are more prone to turning soggy in the first place!  The flavouring wasn’t bad though.

New York Steakhouse Soggy Fries

Deep dish that quickly turned the wedges soggy

Then there came the béarnaise sauce, when I was already 1/3 into the steak. It was lumpy.

New York Steakhouse Bernaise

The bearnaise sauce was bloody lumpy. Poorly made.

I gave up halfway through the steak and fries, with a bill of ~US$100.  This is not what I expected of a New York Steakhouse.  Won’t return.

Visit Details:
March 2017, Dinner, USD $100 per head

4 Sukhumvit Road, Soi 2, Bangkok
+66 2 6567700

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